Muddy Footprints

Muddy Footprints

Moving toward the climax of our whirlwind tour of Chile’s Region of Aysén, we continue to follow in the steps of the Patagones, South America’s “Bigfoot” people. With rain threatening for today, I’m pretty sure we’ll be leaving muddy footprints everywhere we go. But we awake to an almost-perfect, almost-summer morning at Mallín Colorado Lodge…

Incomplete Metamorphosis

Incomplete Metamorphosis

Are they really made of marble? That question comes up as our tour group makes its way to the renowned Marble Caverns. Yes and no, the guide explains. It depends whether or not the process is complete. Sometimes it’s an incomplete metamorphosis. After our long Day 3 drive, it’s past mid-afternoon when we finally reach…

Best or Worst?

Best or Worst?

“It was the best of times, it was the worst of times…” So Charles Dickens began his novel of the French Revolution, and at this moment, I honestly can’t decide either… whether this trip to northern Patagonia will turn out the best or worst time of my life. So maybe it’s not the best time…

Women of the Wilderness

Women of the Wilderness

Will I be able to fulfill this ambitious agenda? I ask myself when the 6 a.m. alarm whines. After a fall a couple of evenings ago, I feel more like a decrepit gringa with delusions of grandeur than one of the intrepid women of the wilderness. I ache from head to toe before today’s leg…